All week leading up to the trip, we prepped. Scott made several more trips to REI to get said cooking gear and on Thursday night he packed everything. What a guy! Friday we dashed out of the city a little after 1pm and hit minimal traffic. Assateague is about 3 hours away and we arrived at 5:30 and registered at the Ranger Station. Even though we were doing back country hiking and camping (meaning camping in tents, not campers or RVs) we still needed to tell the Rangers. There are a set number of camp sites at the back country camp grounds so we needed to make sure there was room for us (no previous reservations were required). We were in luck. Three spots left! We also informed them we would hike the next day down to the furthest point of Assateague to camp there. They said we'd be the only ones. Cool!
We parked the car, changed, put on our packs and set out 4 miles down the beach to Little Levels camp site (see map above). It was a cool evening with nice tidal breezes and the hike only took us about an hour and a half. The camp ground was pretty crowded with a boy scout group on one side and about five other groups one the other side. After settling on a place to set up our tent we got to work quickly while the sun was still up. Just as we were about to unload our sleeping bags and arrange our things in the tent, we hear a rumbling. At first I thought Scott was drumming his fingers on the top of the tent and as I looked up to say something, a herd of 8-9 wild horses ran past us about 50 yards away! It was stunning and too quick to pull out a camera. Assateague is known for it's wild horses and these horses are known to bite and kick visitors so we didn't really want to draw attention to ourselves but it was incredible. They were a little shorter than domestic horses and their hair was more rough looking indicating their wild nature. Sorry, we didn't get any pictures and it was also the only time we saw any up close the whole trip.
| Taken either right before or just after the horses galloped past the distant dune |
Before settling down for the night, we went to the shore to look up at the stars. It was breezy which made me cold so we didn't stay for long and we were getting tired.
| Our camp site at sun set |
In the morning we made pancakes for breakfast and then broke down camp. By 8:55 we were hiking down to State Line. The packs were pretty heavy and the sand was soft in a lot of places so it was slow going. In total the 8 mile hike took about 4.5 hours. It was a relief to get the packs off our backs. It's interesting to remember when backpacking in the country, you need ALL the water you'll need for the whole trip which is about 4 liters or 1 gallon a day per person. That means we had 5 gallons of water between the two of us. Now a gallon is roughly 8-9 pounds. Scott had 3 gallons (28lbs) and I had 2 gallons (18lbs) plus our full camelbaks... it was a lot of water and a lot of weight.
| Making pancakes in our tent |
| Not bad for roughing it! |
| We found this skeleton during our lunch break. At first I thought it was a horse but when we got closer... we think it's a dolphin. |
We relaxed for about 45 minutes before getting back the energy to pick a camp site which we did indeed have the whole place to ourselves. We picked a spot that was a little way off the beaten path and slightly hidden. Two things about Assateague I didn't know. One, if you have a permit, you are allowed to drive your vehicle onto the beach and park for most of the day, no over night on the beach however. Two, there are ticks! We mostly found them on the underside of picnic tables and benches and in the grass past the dunes near the camp sites. Luckily these ticks were pretty big so they were easy to spot but it didn't diminish our paranoia. I'd say these were the two low points of the trip; having obnoxious trucks drive by (and not offer us a ride! How rude!), park and set up on average 4 fishing poles on the beach in the hopes of catching fish causing us to have to change our trajectory and walk up to the softer sand to avoid the lines. It got really annoying really fast. And in all our hiking on the three days, we didn't see a single person catch a fish. And then watching for ticks. But other than that, it was really fun!
Once our tent was set up we took a leisurely stroll down to the real State line, dividing Assateague from Chincoteague on the Virginia side. There are big wooden poles with fencing dividing the states and it even goes out into the water about 15 yards. It's purpose is to keep the Assateague and Chincoteague horse herds separate although some mustangs have swum around the poles to get to the other side. On the Chincoteague side there are no vehicles or camping allowed in order to preserve the island's natural habitat.
| I'm in both states at once! |
| Ocean view from Chincoteague with no one and nothing in sight. |
| We busied ourselves by tracing our shadows! Scott is Superman. (Look really close, it's there) |
| The tired travelers |
By around 5 o'clock we started to get hungry so we headed back to camp for dinner which was Velveeta shells mac and cheese! Yes, it's sad that I got so excited about it. When we had eaten, we were pretty tired and it was getting colder so we didn't really want to go out exploring anymore. Plus, our sleeping rolls and bags were really comfy. We turned in early that night and got the best nights sleep camping either of us can remember! There is definitely something to be said for beach camping. If the sand underneath is lumpy, you can easily smooth it out, unlike a root or a rock in the woods. Plus, it's soft.
The next morning (Sunday, for those keeping score at home), we ate precooked, vacuum sealed scrambled eggs and bacon which actually wasn't too bad. I've had worse food camping. We packed up camp and headed back up the beach for Little Levels. Our packs were lighter and we decided to walk barefoot on the beach and it was great. The waves cooled our sore feet and the sand was harder which made the walking easier and faster. We hiked the 8 miles back to Little Levels in about 3 hours giving us time to contemplate our next move. Having rested for about an hour and we both decided while it was fun, we were ready to go home. It seemed like a really good idea at the time and what's another 4 miles? It was a tough journey even with really light packs but now our feet were aching pretty badly but we eventually made it back to our car, safe and sound by around 3:30.
| Lunch break watching the waves. |
| Scott, the loyal Captain of our beloved Jolly Roger kite. |
As we drove home with sore legs, aching feet and backs, tired bodies and slightly sun burnt necks and arms, we rejoiced in the knowledge that Monday was a holiday and we could take that day to recuperate from our vacation. We hope to go back again this summer and do more beachy things this time. I couldn't ask for a better hiking, camping or life partner than my adorable husband.


