Monday, February 26, 2018

Buenos Aires: Part Two

Hello and welcome back to our wrap up from our amazing and wonderful Argentinean vacation in Buenos Aires. Let's get to it!

Monday night we did indeed go to the tango show. We were fortunate enough to connect with another Embassy family living in BA and they were gracious enough to take Mackenzie for the evening so Scott and Kiersten could have a little date night. We went to Cafe Tortoni and had an enjoyable dinner then went downstairs for the show. We were told it would be risqué but not that it would be so loud. It was still very, very entertaining. It was essentially the history of tango told through song and dance. In the end we took away one main point about tango: it's a flurry of legs!
Our fun dinner included fancy drinks, "hamburgers" and a house dessert that was
like ice cream but it tasted lighter.


Kid free! Oh yeah!


We picked up Mackenzie who had a tremendous time entertaining her babysitters and got back to our Airbnb late.

Tuesday morning we made it out to the center of town to see the Obelisco, the BA hedge and Olympic rings which are there for the Youth Olympics happening in August. At 10:30 we caught a free walking tour of that part of the city and went for as long as Mackenzie could manage. She did pretty well until inevitably she became tired and cranky around 12.

She loves holding on!


Mackenzie was in fact so exhausted that she napped for 4 hours! Scott and Kiersten rested as well making us realize vacationing with a baby is wonderful because it forces us to rest thus actually making it a vacation! By the time she woke up we were getting hungry for dinner so we headed back to the main part of town to get pizza at one of the oldest pizza parlors in the city, Pizza Güerrin. Then we went across the street for a traditional cannoli dessert. They had lots of yummy things to choose from.
Hungry for some pizza.


So many options!

Mmm! Perfect!


We walked around for a bit more seeing the Casa Rosada (their equivalent to our White House) and then down to the river to see the Punta de la Mujer (Bridge of Women). The weather was very comfortable and it was a beautiful night. We got home late again and all went to bed.

See how the bridge kind of looks like a tango danger? They are obsessed!

Locks on the bridge. How very European.


In the morning on Wednesday Scott wasn't feeling too hot so Kiersten and Mackenzie went out to the park near our apartment. The weather was actually very chilly! About 68℉ with a constant breeze. Made it feel like Fall (which is the next season for us so that makes sense). Wednesday was a pretty low key day with Scott being sick so we were able to do some laundry and rest some more. In the afternoon K&M hopped on the metro to visit an old theatre that was converted into an awesome book store in 2007. It was incredible! Ice cream was next on the agenda and it was okay not great like we'd been promised from a travel blog.
She pretty much mastered this slide.

  
Inside the grand bookstore. How cool?!


The children's section was once the orchestra pit!
Mackenzie had a blast here! She loves books.

From the outside.

Looks promising but the taste was just not great.


We got back to the apartment and Kiersten had a little dinner and took Mackenzie back to the park to kill some time before bed. It was crazy crowded! Then we got some more ice cream. This ice cream was better than earlier in the day and we got twice as much for half the price! 
Playing in the sand at the park.


Oh yeah! That's what I'm talking about!


Thursday morning Scott was feeling better, about 75% so we still took it easy. The girls went to the park again in the morning to let him rest then hit up Starbucks (!) for a medialuna (croissant). Was gonna get hot chocolate but there was only one barista with a long line so... we'll just have to get some during R&R in a few months!
Delicious! It tasted like America!


Mackenzie took an early nap which allowed us to get out earlier in the afternoon and take another walking tour this time of Recoleta Cemetery which is one of the most famous cemeteries in Argentina because that is where Eva Perón (Evita), wife of the three time President of Argentina Juan Perón, is buried. It was incredible! Some of these mausoleums are so fancy they are like monuments to the people or family that owns them. Some are no longer being taken care of because the family has no money and are truly creepy. It's easy to forget you're surrounded by death when walking around. 

Getting ready for the walking tour.




Fun Fact: this unassuming mausoleum is where Evita is
buried with her family, not her husband.


Again Mackenzie handled this tour very well. At the end we were all hungry and ready for dinner. We went to a cafe right near the cemetery and had a very delicious last dinner in Buenos Aires. We caught the metro for ice cream one more time to go to the oldest ice cream shop in town... and again we were disappointed in the guidebook's recommendation of an ice cream place. Oh well. We'll always have the memory of the good ones.


This man is holding up the branches of this
GIANT tree. He's made out of bolts.

We love ice cream! Just not this ice cream.


Friday morning we packed up then had breakfast at a 24 hour cafe a few blocks from our apartment. We were allowed to check out late so Mackenzie was able to take a nap before we caught a cab for the airport and had lunch there. We said good-bye to Argentina on the plane at 4pm and landed in Asuncion just before 6pm. Literally 5 minutes before we landed, Scott entered the next phase of parenthood when Mackenzie threw up all over his front. Luckily both had a change of clothes in the carry-on bag so after we debarked both got to change. 
Mackenzie received a free treat after breakfast when we got
some pastries next door. We think it's because she's so cute.


Waiting in the customs line in BA. She was such a trooper.


Someone was waiting to take us home after we got our bags and we got right on the road. Traffic was predictably terrible on a Friday night of a three day weekend and the roads are horribly paved and about 15 minutes into the ride, Mackenzie threw up again. We stripped her down and Kiersten held her (we didn't have a car seat at any point of this trip). She threw up one more time before we got home. We cleaned her up and put her to bed. She threw up one final time, we changed the sheets and she slept hard the rest of the night. Poor little lady.

We were worried she'd caught the same bug Scott had in BA but Saturday morning she was her normal, happy, silly self. No more sickness! We spent the day stocking up on groceries, doing laundry and general chores around the house.

Sunday we finally made it to church after two weeks of missing. It was so nice to get a spiritual boost. And Primary wasn't a complete disaster! We are making a marginal improvement on the reverence of the children and increasing their interest levels. Hooray! After church Mackenzie napped, we made dinner, FaceTimed with family and went to a very small Stake choir practice. It was a productive Sunday.

Now here we are all caught up to Monday! Today is a Paraguayan holiday so Scott had the day off of work. We ran some more errands and actually bought some plants (basil, rosemary and tomato) to start our herb and vegetable garden we've been talking about. Very excited for this project to take off. Then we had Brenda and Netza over for a delicious Hungarian themed dinner and level 6 of our Harry Potter board game. Good news! We defeated Lord Voldemort in two rounds and are ready for level 7! It was a wonderfully epic night.
Stuffed cabbage, lecsó and steamed carrots. 


Let's finish off our Eccentricities of Argentina:

  • Window washers on the street. They don't have any! We only saw one in our week there. In Asuncion almost every major intersection has two guys washing car windows for a buck.
  • Sunglasses. People actually wear them there! People don't wear sunglasses in Paraguay.
  • Smoking and tattoos. We saw more people smoking and more tattoos in BA than in Asuncion. 
  • English speakers. Yes we expected to hear English when we went on tours and things but we were amazed at the number of people who spoke English outside of those settings. In cafes, walking the streets and other random places. It is an international place to be sure.
  • Metro performers. Especially in the evenings you could find someone performing music or dancing in the metro stations or actually on the trains. They were all usually very good.
  • Metro sellers. Instead of selling things on the side of the street people use the metro.
The Mackenzie Update:
  • She has dubbed any large transportation vehicle as a "beep beep". The metro trains were "beep beeps" and the airplane. It used to just be for cars but she's adding the label to all of them now.
  • New tricks! Scott taught her how to jump like a frog and to do finger pistols. Both are adorable.
    It's really hard to capture a picture of her doing it. Her hands are just a blur!
  • Throwing up as previously mentioned. This was her first time doing it ever so it's a pretty major achievement (if you want to call it that). And both parents now have first hand experience of being thrown up on. Sadly it probably won't be the last time.
  • Her mimicking skills are increasing more and more. She'll copy our actions, mannerisms and even try to repeat what we say. Got to be more careful now...
We are happy to be home but sad our vacation is over. When we are asked what our favorite part of the trip was we say the city in general. It is very well thought out, lots of open space allowing for parks and has plenty of beautiful and diverse architecture. We would definitely go back if given the opportunity.

Thanks for reading! See you all next week!

Tuesday, February 20, 2018

Buenos Aires: Part One

Hola! Hello! This week we are reporting from Buenos Aires, Argentina. We arrived Saturday afternoon and have been going going going ever since but we’ll get to that in a minute. First the beginning of the week back in Asuncion.

After resting and recovering from the hospital stay on Monday, Kiersten was ready to go by Tuesday. She had a ladies lunch at a new churrascaria (meat restaurant) and some aspects were better than our other place but the chicken was not as good. Nevertheless she will introduce it to Scott soon.
Fancy fancy.


Wednesday we had a pretty low key Valentine’s Day. A yummy pesto and balsamic chicken dinner with cheesecake brownies for dessert. Our present is the trip to Buenos Aires thus the low key affair.
Tasty dinner.


Enjoying Mommy's chocolate heart from Daddy.

Some quick (and cheap) Valentine's decorations we threw up last minute.


The rest of the week we got ready for our trip. Cleaned out the fridge, used up as much food as possible, gave some food away, cleaned the house and took out the trash, etc. 
"Helping" Mommy pull weeds one morning.


Sharing a meal with our friends the Wheelers on Friday night.


We flew out of Asuncion at 8:30 on Saturday morning. While waiting for our plane we noticed a lot of young tennis players and one was wearing a shirt that said “Hungary”. Scott convinced Kiersten to go strike up a conversation with them and an embarrassing 1 minute later came back to confirm, yes they are Hungarian and they are here going to Brazil for a tennis tournament. Let’s just say Spanish is now taking up most of her foreign language space in her brain Hungarian previously occupied.
At the airport!


On the plane!


Mackenzie handled the flight terrifically and by 11:30am we had landed, got through customs, got our bags and were sitting in a taxi ready to go to our Airbnb. It’s small but has just about everything we need. M took a quick nap and Scott explored a bit of the neighborhood to get us groceries and lunch. Out we went to catch the tour bus by 3:30 and we rode it for about half the route and saw a lot of the town.
Taxi ride!


Looking cool waiting for the metro.

Listening to the tour tips on the bus.

We moved up top because oddly it was cooler outside.

The beautifully colored buildings of La Boca.

This was a crazy statue of hundreds of bikes linked together. (Not real bikes.)


We got off at Plaza de las Naciones Unidas and the giant metal flower. It follows the sun, opening when the sun rises and closing when the sun sets. Mackenzie was in awe. We walked around then found dinner at Almacen de Pizzas which is actually the first restaurant we ever ate at in Asuncion too. Must be a chain. Feeling much more refreshed and nourished, it was getting late so we caught the metro back to our Airbnb for bed. Traveling takes it out of you.
The Floralis Generica.


Sunday morning we got ready for church and embarked down the street to find the chapel. Not knowing the exact location and not having data on our phones, we wandered for about 30 minutes before deciding we missed it and to come back and listen to a Conference talk. Come to find out we were one block shy of the building before turning back. C’est la vie. It actually turned out to be a good thing because Mackenzie went to bed late and woke up early so she took a very early nap.

We hit the streets again at 11:30 to finish as much of the tour bus route as we could before meeting some people in San Telmo at 1. The Féria de San Telmo (street market) is one of the largest and most famous in the city. It’s only open on Sundays and has about 200 vendors. They even have live tango happening in the open areas. We saw some tango and some Argentinian antiques before grabbing a taxi for lunch at El Fabric de Taco, an authentic Mexican restaurant. Very tasty.
Back on the bus. Hot hot hot.


Colorful seltzer bottles are very common in the antique area of ferias (markets).

She insisted on eating the limes!

This is basically a burnt cheese roll. It tasted much better
than it sounds!

Very delicious and authentic tacos al pastor.


We retired to our place around 6:30 full, happy and tired once again. We planned out the next day and hit the hay.
All the metro stations have really nice artwork on the walls.


Monday morning (today) we woke to rain. Sunday had been very hot, in the upper 90’s so the rain cooled it off but left the air muggy. We caught the metro to Plaza Italia and walked a few blocks to go to the Japanese Gardens. It was so beautiful inside. After an hour or so we were getting hungry and walked down a random street towards the metro and stumbled upon the perfect little Italian pasta bar, Quotidiano. They had croissants, Argentinian pastries, pastas and more. If we had more time in Buenos Aires we’d definitely go back.
Our walk took us past the zoo and if you look really closely you can see 2 giraffes.

They have monuments everywhere!

Inside the beautiful Japanese Gardens.





Inside the quaint pasta bar we ate lunch in.


This Argentinean dessert had multiple flaky pastry crusts with dulce de leche
in between with a meringue top. So rich!

We are settled in at the apartment now so Mackenzie can nap. Tonight we are going to see a live Tango show which we’ve been told is very good.

This week we’ll have a guest segment. Instead of our usual “Quirks of Paraguay” here is “Eccentricities of Argentina”!


  • Sun bathing. Maybe because it’s summer or a weekend or both but in almost any park or open patch of grass you’ll see people soaking up the sun.
  • Parks and plazas. They had them in abundance here and it’s awesome!
    This park is located 2 blocks from our Airbnb. It has this playground, a dog park,
    an exercise park and a walking/running track! Plus lots of open space to sit and
    take in the sun.
  • Bikers. We’re talking bicyclists. There are designated bike lanes and lots of people using them. Fantastic.
  • Exercise. Having the parks and bike lanes seem to encourage exercise and we have seen a ton more people running or exercising outside of the park than you’d ever see in Asuncion. It reminds us a little of home.
  • Metro. Speaking of home, this city has a metro system and it is great!
    Its a metro!!


That’s enough for now. We’ll save the rest for next week’s edition.

The Mackenzie Update:


  • This week she surprised us by responding to an English question in Spanish. Scott asked her to say “ten”. And she said “diez” clear as day. We were both stunned and thrilled at our little bilingual baby. Sadly she only did it the one time.
  • She really likes "helping" Mommy at the grocery store. She did do a good job so she got a treat: chocolate milk which she sucked dry then carried all the way home.
    Helping to pull the cart.

    So happy with her chocolate milk straw.
  • She has been counting in Spanish. We can pretty clearly hear her say, “uno, dos, tres” at random times.
  • She got a pretty bad scrape on her knee this week. We used the biggest bandaid we had.
    Daniel Tiger is distracting her from the pain.
  • She loves the metro! She likes watching the trains come into the station and holding onto the handles. It is pretty fun.



That’s all we have for this week. Next week we’ll fill you in on the rest of our BA adventure!